Hiking the W Trek Without a Guide

On the second day of the W Trek, you will need to head east towards Francés campsite. While there’s no need to wake up before sunrise, I would still leave relatively early as you have the optional side hike to Mirador Británico later in the day.

The walk from Paine Grande to Francés is one of the easier sections of the W Trek, with mostly undulating terrain rather than any sustained climbing. You’ll spend much of it walking around Lago Skottsberg, with the mountains getting noticeably closer as you approach the French Valley. Just before reaching Francés, you’ll pass the old Italiano campsite, which is also where the turnoff to Mirador Británico begins.

From Italiano, Francés is only another 1 km (0.6 miles) away. However, as check-in at Francés doesn’t open until 3:00pm, you won’t have enough time to check in, set up camp and then hike to Mirador Británico before it gets dark. The easiest option is to leave your main bag at Italiano, complete the side hike with a daypack, then collect it afterwards and continue to Francés. As there isn’t secure luggage storage, keep any valuables with you.

From Italiano, Mirador Británico is roughly a 12 km (7.5 miles) out-and-back hike. While the route is predominantly uphill on the way to the viewpoint, it isn’t overly difficult and is definitely one I would recommend doing.

To start the hike, take the turnoff north from Italiano into the French Valley. From there, the path follows the Río Francés uphill and gradually becomes steeper. The first viewpoint is Mirador Francés, which gives you a much closer look at the glacier you’ve probably been hearing for a while and mistaking for thunder.

After Mirador Francés, the trail to Británico weaves in and out of the forest, each time opening onto rockier and more exposed terrain. Eventually, you’ll leave the forest for the final time and arrive at Mirador Británico. The viewpoint sits in the middle of a huge natural amphitheatre surrounded by the granite peaks of the Paine massif. Once you’ve taken it all in, retrace your steps back to Italiano, collect your main bag and continue on to Francés before it gets dark.

The third day of the W Trek is a straightforward point-to-point hike from Francés to Chileno campsite. There are no side trips to do today, so after packing up your tent, head east towards the Cuernos section and enjoy the walk.

For much of the first part of the day, the trail follows Lago Nordenskjöld, with open views across the turquoise water towards Los Cuernos and the rest of the Paine massif. There aren’t any huge climbs through this section, but the trail is constantly rolling up and down, which can start to add up when you’re carrying a full backpack.

At one point, the trail comes right down beside Lago Nordenskjöld onto a small pebble beach. This is the perfect place to sit down, catch your breath and have an early lunch surrounded by Patagonian scenery. Although the turquoise water can be very inviting, swimming is prohibited due to dangerous currents, so we only cooled our legs off at the edge.

As you move away from Lago Nordenskjöld, the landscape starts to change from open lakeside terrain to the much more enclosed Ascencio Valley. There is one final climb before the trail begins running parallel to the Río Ascencio, high above the river below, eventually bringing you to Chileno campsite. Before going to bed, make sure to pack a daypack for the sunrise hike the following morning.

If you’re planning to hike to Mirador Base Torres for sunrise, Chileno is the best campsite to stay at as it’s the closest to the viewpoint. If Chileno is full, Camping Central is the next closest option. From there, the viewpoint is around 10 km (6.2 miles) away and takes roughly four hours to reach, so you’ll need to start much earlier if you still want to make it for sunrise.

When I did the W Trek in January, we woke up at 3:30am, which gave us enough time to reach Mirador Base Torres before sunrise. From Chileno, it’s roughly 4.5 km (2.8 miles) to the viewpoint and takes around 1.5–2 hours. You’ll be hiking entirely in the dark, so make sure you have a headtorch.

The hike starts through the forest, and in complete darkness you don’t really get much appreciation for what’s around you. As you climb higher, the trail becomes steeper before eventually leaving the forest and reaching the rocky moraine below Base Torres. This final ascent is the hardest part of the morning, with a steep trail over loose rocks that feels even more difficult when your headtorch is the only light you have.

At the top, you’ll reach Mirador Base Torres, one of the most famous viewpoints in Patagonia. On a clear morning, the first sunlight gradually hits the three granite towers and can turn them orange and red. We were lucky enough to get the classic sunrise view, but the weather changes quickly here, so there’s never any guarantee the towers will be visible.

After sunrise, head back down the same trail towards Chileno. On the descent, you’ll finally get to see the forest and river you walked past in complete darkness a few hours earlier. Once you’re back at Chileno, pack up your tent before continuing down towards the Welcome Center.

From Chileno, the walk to the Welcome Center is predominantly downhill, although there are still a few short climbs and rolling sections along the way. Eventually, the trail joins a road with a path running parallel to it, taking you all the way to the Welcome Center.

From the Welcome Center, you will need to take a small shuttle to Laguna Amarga, where your return bus to Puerto Natales will be waiting. The shuttle can’t be booked in advance and costs CLP 4,500, which needs to be paid in cash. You should arrive at least 30 minutes before your scheduled departure from Laguna Amarga to allow enough time for the shuttle ride. While you wait, you can sit in the Welcome Center’s cafe section, which has a bathroom and a few tables and chairs.

Once you reach Laguna Amarga, all that’s left is to find your main bus back to Puerto Natales. The journey takes around an hour and a half, and after four days on the trail, you’ll probably be ready for a proper meal and a real bed.

Puerto Natales

Finished the W Trek? Sleep here.

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