The Colca Canyon trek, tucked away in southern Peru just outside Arequipa, is one of the standout hikes Peru has to offer. Stretching almost 100km through the Andes, the canyon is the second deepest in the world and, in some parts, nearly twice as deep as the slightly more famous Grand Canyon in the USA. It is also home to some unique and impressive wildlife, including Andean condors, which you will spot gliding overhead as you descend deeper into the canyon each day.
Although the Colca Canyon trek may not be the most talked-about overnight hike in Peru, do not let this deter you. This guide has everything you need to hike the Colca Canyon trek without a guide or tent over three days. If you are looking to complete it in two days, which is the more traditional way of doing it, the first accordion has you covered.
Colca Canyon Trek Map
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Plan Your Colca Canyon Trek
Arequipa → Cabanaconde → San Juan de Chuccho
The first village you will sleep at during your three-day hike through Colca Canyon is San Juan de Chuccho, but first you need to get to Cabanaconde, where the trailhead starts. The easiest way to get to Cabanaconde is to book a shared ride with a tour company in Arequipa that runs guided trips into the canyon. Even though you will not be joining the guided hike, many agencies let travellers without a guide hop on their transport if there is space on the bus.
We booked our transport to Cabanaconde through Turismo María Belén and paid 50 PEN per person, which also included a light breakfast. A huge benefit of booking with a tour group rather than making your own way there, is the chance to stop along the way and watch Andean condors soaring over the Colca Canyon. Most guided tours leave Arequipa between 3 and 4am, so be ready for an early start.
While it is possible to get to Cabanaconde via colectivo, I would not recommend it. The bus journey from Arequipa takes approximately five hours and, with the ticket already so cheap, you probably will not save much once you account for taxis and colectivos.
Once you hop off the bus in Cabanaconde and stretch your legs, I would recommend stocking up on a few essentials: water, snacks and something for lunch from the shops around the main square. This will be your last chance to buy anything before reaching San Juan de Chuccho (approximately 3 hours later), as there are no tiendas or roadside stalls along this part of the trail.
From the centre of Cabanaconde, the walk to the start of the Colca Canyon trailhead takes around 30 minutes. The trailhead begins behind the football field, just past the turn-off to Mirador San Miguel. You will know you are on the right track when you reach the ticket point before the long descent to San Juan de Chuccho. Tickets cost 70 PEN per person in 2024, although this may have increased by the time you are reading this.
Keep your entrance ticket until you exit the canyon on Day 3. Officials may ask for it at the exit, and if you have thrown it out, you will need to pay again.
After buying your entrance ticket, the Colca Canyon trek predominantly snakes down the huge canyon wall until you reach a bridge to cross the river below. The downhill section is easy to follow, but getting to San Juan de Chuccho can be a little confusing once overgrown vegetation starts covering parts of the path beyond the bridge. As long as you keep walking in the same direction as the river flows, you will eventually get to San Juan de Chuccho, no matter what path you follow.
The first day of the Colca Canyon trek is rather easy compared to other hikes you can do in Peru. You will mostly be hiking on flat ground or downhill, so if you are someone who gets sore knees, it is worth looking into hiring hiking poles in Arequipa. The total distance for Day 1 is a relaxed 14km (8.7 miles), with minimal elevation gain.
San Juan de Chuccho has several basic guesthouses, all offering similar prices and amenities. We stayed at Posada Gloria and paid 70 PEN per person for a private room, dinner, breakfast and a warm shower. What really made Posada Gloria stand out was the undercover rotunda, where we ate dinner and breakfast while looking out over the canyon walls we had just hiked down. It was the perfect place to unwind, read a book in a hammock and take in the views.
San Juan de Chuccho → Sangalle Oasis
On the second day of the Colca Canyon trek, there is no need to rush and wake up pre-dawn like the day before. Day 2 starts with a short but steep uphill climb out of San Juan de Chuccho to get back to the main road. The climb should not take longer than 45 minutes, but it may be slightly confusing, as the trail for this section is not clearly marked. It is not really important which route you take up: as long as you make it to the main road above, you are on the right track.
Aim to set off from San Juan de Chuccho by around 8:30am. While the Day 2 hike is not hard, the earlier you set off, the more time you will get to enjoy by the pool in Sangalle.
After the short uphill, the hike along the main road to Sangalle is mostly flat and weaves between villages such as Cosñirhua and Malata, two quiet farming villages that most trekkers walk straight through. Although you will see local farmers working in their fields along the way, we struggled to find anywhere open for lunch and had to carry on until we reached Sangalle.
This part of the Colca Canyon trek follows the eastern side of the canyon and gives you some of the best views of the whole trek. The river sits far below, with the sheer canyon walls rising around you, and if you are lucky, you may spot Andean condors gliding overhead as they hunt for prey. It is worth slowing down and taking it all in rather than pushing straight through to Sangalle.
At some point, you will reach a crossroad and see a sign for Sangalle that takes you further down into the canyon. You want to follow this route and, once again, the trail goes steadily downhill all the way to Sangalle, so brace yourself if you suffer from sore knees in long descents.
Just before the main descent into the oasis, you will spot an old man beside his shack selling snacks and water. It may not look like much, but this is your last chance to stock up at a reasonable price. I would recommend buying enough water and snacks to last until you are back in Cabanaconde around midday the following day.
Because of Sangalle's isolated location, bottles of water can cost up to 20 PEN (US$6) each. Plan accordingly and make sure you have enough water, as the next time you will be able to buy anything at a regular price is when you leave the oasis.
After a gentle three to four-hour hike, you will finally arrive at Sangalle, a small scenic village at the bottom of the Colca Canyon. Most accommodation has a pool, where you can spend the afternoon cooling off under palm trees, surrounded by the impressively tall and intricate rock face of the canyon. This is a truly unique spot, and not one I expected to find myself in when I first set off through Peru. Although I did not book accommodation in advance, I highly recommend doing so in peak season, as the number of tourists often outweighs the number of available beds.
I stayed at Oasis Paraiso Ecolodge for 40 PEN per person, which included a private room and bathroom, plus breakfast in the morning. Lunch and dinner were available for an additional 25 PEN each. The meals were standard Peruvian food, filling and warm, and much appreciated after two days on the trail.
When I completed the Colca Canyon trek, I struggled to find any open shops in the small villages on the way to Sangalle. If this is the case for you as well, push through to Sangalle and buy lunch from your accommodation.
Sangalle Oasis → Cabanaconde
As with everything else in life, what goes down must eventually come back up, and the Colca Canyon trek is no different. After two days of descending deeper into the world's second-deepest canyon, it is time to climb your way back out to Cabanaconde.
The climb back to Cabanaconde is up a cliff face, so there is limited shade along the way. Make sure to leave Sangalle before the sun comes up to minimise the time you hike in the direct sun.
The hike out of the canyon from Sangalle to Cabanaconde covers around 4km (2.5 miles), with close to 1,200m (4,000 feet) of elevation gain up a series of exposed switchbacks. While the trail is not technical, the steady ascent combined with the full sun easily makes this section the hardest of the trek. Having spent days thinking about how hard the ascent was going to be before we set off, actually completing it did not feel as bad as we thought it would, and it only took us around three hours. Once you get to the top of the canyon, Cabanaconde is a further 2km (1.2 miles) along flatter terrain.
Cabanaconde → Arequipa
Once you reach Cabanaconde, the easiest way to get back to Arequipa is by public bus. I would recommend buying your return ticket as soon as you get back to Cabanaconde, before doing anything else, to make sure you have a spot on the bus. Two companies run public buses from the village's main square, with several departures throughout the day, and you do not need to book anything in advance. Tickets cost approximately 50 PEN per person, and the bus will drop you at the main bus terminal in Arequipa.
The last bus for the day leaves Cabanaconde at 2pm. Unless you plan on spending the night in Cabanaconde, make sure you get to the main square to buy your ticket no later than 12:30pm.
The bus journey back to Arequipa takes about six to seven hours and, as it is a public bus, it generally does not stop for food, water or bathroom breaks along the way. Before boarding, take the time to have lunch and stock up on snacks and water in Cabanaconde. There are numerous small shops around the main square selling sandwiches and small meals at a very reasonable price. If you only have time for one thing, make sure to use the bathroom before leaving Cabanaconde.
Of all the treks in Peru, the Colca Canyon stands apart from the others and is one I would definitely recommend, especially if you are already in the south of Peru. Instead of climbing up into snow-capped mountains, you descend into one of the deepest canyons in the world, ending at an oasis of palm trees and pools at the bottom. Best of all, doing the Colca Canyon trek without a guide and taking three days to do it, lets you enjoy the canyon views and the pool in Sangalle rather than rushing through it.
The Colca Canyon trek is one of the easier overnight treks Peru has to offer. Even if you have minimal hiking experience and a moderate level of fitness, you should be able to easily complete it over three days. The hardest part comes on Day 3, when you hike from Sangalle to Cabanaconde, climbing nearly 1,200m (4,000 feet) over 4km (2.5 miles).
One advantage of staying in homestays along the way is that you do not need to hike with a tent or sleeping bag. You can keep your pack lighter, which your knees will appreciate on the long descents.
Completing the Colca Canyon trek without a guide is much cheaper than doing a guided version. Here's exactly where my money went.
| Item | PEN | USD |
|---|---|---|
| Shuttle from Arequipa to Cabanaconde (incl. breakfast) | 50 | $13 |
| Canyon entrance ticket (Boleto Turístico) | 70 | $19 |
| Accommodation Night 1 at Posada Gloria (incl. dinner & breakfast) | 70 | $19 |
| Lunch in Sangalle | 25 | $7 |
| Accommodation Night 2 at Oasis Paraiso (incl. dinner & breakfast) | 65 | $18 |
| Return bus to Arequipa | 50 | $13 |
| Trail snacks, water & extra food | 50 | $13 |
| Total per person | 380 PEN | $102 |
Arequipa is the starting point for the Colca Canyon trek. Most travellers arrive from Lima by domestic flight or overnight bus, while those already travelling through southern Peru can take a direct bus from Cusco, or from Puno if they are coming from Lake Titicaca or Bolivia. I would aim to arrive in Arequipa at least a couple of days before your trek, rather than trying to connect straight through to Cabanaconde.
The best time to do the Colca Canyon trek is from May to October, when rain is less likely and trail conditions are generally more reliable. I would personally recommend travelling either side of the peak dry season, from June to August, as you still have a good chance of dry weather without the busiest mid-year crowds. June to August is the safest bet for clear conditions, although nights in Sangalle can get properly cold.
April to May & September to October
Shoulder season- A good balance of drier conditions and fewer hikers on the trail
- April and May are usually greener after the wet season
- September and October are a quieter late-season option before the wetter months return
- Clear mornings still give you a good chance of spotting condors at Cruz del Condor
- Nights in Cabanaconde can still be cold, so pack a warm layer
June to August
Dry season, most popular months- The most reliable time for dry trails and clear canyon views
- Best choice if the Colca Canyon trek is on a tight itinerary and you want the lowest chance of rain
- Sunny days are great for hiking, but temperatures drop sharply once the sun goes down
- Expect cold, sometimes freezing nights around Cabanaconde
- Sangalle accommodation can fill up fast, especially in July and August, so make sure to book in advance
November to March
Wet season- Rain is more common, particularly from December to March
- The canyon is at its greenest and there are far fewer people on the trail
- Wet sections can be slippery, while cloud can take away some of the bigger canyon views
- January and February are usually the wettest months, so conditions can change quickly from one day to the next
- Still possible to hike, but take proper rain gear and expect conditions to be less predictable
Hiking the Colca Canyon trek without a guide is safe and very doable if you come prepared. The route is not technical, overnight stops are straightforward and you will usually see other hikers along the way. Still, you are walking through a remote canyon with patchy signal, so download your route, plan your water and do not underestimate the climb back out of Sangalle.
Well-Marked Trail
The main Colca Canyon trek route is well used and easy to follow from the moment you reach the trailhead to when you exit the canyon on the other side. You do not need a guide for navigation, but it still helps to know the main stops before you set off.
Other trekkers are nearby
The Colca Canyon trek is popular with both guided groups and independent hikers, so you will usually pass other trekkers, muleteers and locals throughout the day. The guesthouses in San Juan de Chuccho and Sangalle also mean there is always someone nearby to ask for directions or advice.
Download the Offline Map
Phone signal drops in and out once you are inside the canyon, and a couple of sections are less obvious than the main trail. Download the full Colca Canyon trek route on AllTrails, Maps.me or another offline map before setting off, and bring a power bank if you are relying on your phone.
Altitude and heat are the real risks
The biggest risks on the last day of the trek are the heat and the altitude. The Day 3 climb back to Cabanaconde is steep and fully exposed to the sun, all while you are gaining altitude again. Start before dawn and carry plenty of water. Stock up before reaching Sangalle, where a single bottle can cost up to 20 PEN.
Cabanaconde sits at around 3,300 metres (10,800 feet), so altitude sickness can still be a factor before you even start the Colca Canyon trek. The path mostly heads downhill from there, but I would still take the time to acclimatise properly, especially if you have come straight from Lima or another place close to sea level.
Acclimatise in Arequipa First
I would spend at least a day or two in Arequipa before heading to Cabanaconde, especially if you have come straight from Lima. It is a much easier place to take things slow and let your body adjust before the higher drive into the Colca Valley.
Pick up coca leaves and ask about Diamox in Arequipa
Coca leaves are cheap, easy to find and commonly used by locals and travellers in Peru, including from Mercado Central in Arequipa. For stronger altitude prevention, ask a pharmacist or doctor about Diamox (acetazolamide) before the trek, especially if you know you struggle at altitude.
Take the Uphill From Sangalle Slowly
Even if you feel acclimatised by Day 3, take the climb from Sangalle back to Cabanaconde slowly. Your body may be used to sleeping at altitude by then, but a long, steep uphill at around 3,300 metres (10,800 feet) is a different story. The thinner air can leave you more short of breath than expected if you set off too quickly, so find a pace you can hold all the way up.
Your Colca Canyon trek packing list is probably shorter than you expect. Because you will be sleeping in guesthouses each night, you do not need to carry a tent, sleeping bag or sleeping mat. A 30-35L daypack is plenty for clothes, water, snacks and a few essentials. Keep it light and your knees will thank you on the numerous downhills.
